While against Afghan law, modern-day hashish consumption continues a centuries-long tradition
Afghanistan, known for its ancient ties to cannabis and its popularity among travelers on the hippie trail in the mid-20th century, has become a destination few dare to visit due to the country’s tumultuous history. However, in October 2019, I embarked on a journey to explore the heart of Afghanistan’s traditional cannabis culture.
Arriving in the city of Mazar-i-Sharif, I was greeted by a vibrant atmosphere filled with the tantalizing scent of hashish. As I wandered through the city’s streets, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder and curiosity. The Blue Mosque stood majestic, while the bustling bazaar offered a delightful array of street food. It was clear that the tradition of hashish consumption was deeply ingrained in the fabric of Afghan society.
As night fell, I ventured out to witness the hashish scene firsthand. The manager of my hotel warned me to be cautious, as the streets transformed into dimly lit alleys adorned with fruit stalls. The air was thick with the voices of vendors shouting prices to passersby hurrying to seek shelter before darkness consumed the city.
My purpose in Mazar-i-Sharif was to document the contemporary Afghan cannabis culture for a book. As I explored the city and its surroundings, I couldn’t ignore the political tension and the profound poverty that plagued the country. However, amidst these challenges, I witnessed the resilience of tradition. Cannabis plants could be found in people’s yards and on the outskirts of the city, a testament to the enduring spirit of Afghan farmers.
The cannabis fields I encountered displayed a remarkable diversity of shapes, colors, and aromas. Afghan farmers carefully selected plants that produced abundant resin, using seeds from their pollinated plants, a practice passed down through generations. The harvested plants were dried and sieved to extract the resinous powder, which was then pressed to create the refined hashish. Each field had its unique characteristics, reflecting the terroir and the techniques employed by the individual farmers.
In Afghanistan, smoking hashish is commonly done using a hookah known as a “chillum.” This communal experience brings friends together, as they share a chillum and indulge in the pleasures of hashish while sipping on green tea. Other enthusiasts visit the shrine of Baba Ku Mastan in the nearby city of Balkh, where they can partake in a chillum session for a small donation.
Despite the legal restrictions and the challenges faced by Afghanistan, the traditional cannabis culture remains deeply rooted in the country. It serves as a testament to the resilience and perseverance of the Afghan people, who continue to embrace their rich heritage and connection to cannabis, keeping the age-old tradition alive.
